adventures of a teacher
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Dec 21 2009

mandalay, day 2

Burmese advertising is terrible/hilarious.

Just another street in Myanmar…

Doing laundry in the moat around the palace.

Playing a huge game of chess.

Mandalay Palace.  Not worth all the effort I put into getting in!

Mandalay Hill

Hmm…

See that big stone thing on the corner?  There is a guy bathing there.  People take baths on the streets in Myanmar.

I didn’t know what these were, but I saw them hanging all over the city.

Sunset

7:37am / Comments (View) / 0 notes / tagged: myanmar mandalay

mandalay, day 1

Mandalay was an alright city, and while I complained about a lot of it in my posts here, Mandalay Hill was actually pretty cool in retrospect.

View from my room.

Around the massive palace.

Kuthodaw Pagoda (from Wikipedia): The world’s largest book stands upright, set in stone, in the grounds of the Kuthodaw (literally - royal merit) pagoda at the foot of Mandalay Hill in Mandalay, Myanmar (Burma). It has 730 leaves and 1460 pages; each page is three and a half feet wide, five feet tall and five inches thick. Each stone tablet has its own roof and precious gem on top in a small cave-like structure of Sinhalese relic casket type called kyauksa gu (stone inscription cave in Burmese), and they are arranged around a central golden pagoda.

There are over 700 of these stupas, each with a page of the big book inside.

Another temple

Always barefoot.  This is the start of my trek up Mandalay Hill.

Up, up, up!

Finally at the top.

So pretty

The Nepalese palm reader.

They always had fake people looking like they are praying and worshipping in temples.  Very strange.

4:35am / Comments (View) / 1 note / tagged: myanmar mandalay
Dec 2 2009

mandalay, day 2

Yesterday was my second and last day in Mandalay.  I woke up at 8 (sleeping in!) and then went to see what this huge stupid palace was all about.  I had a hunch that the foreigner entrance would be the southern one, so I walked there.  Sidenote: I just looked up the length of the walls and each is 2km!  I got to the south entrance, now my third, and what do you know?  NO FOREIGNER ENTRY.  I hardly even wanted to walk all the way to the last one, but I really had nothing else to do so I did.

Finally I got there, and found out I had to pay TEN dollars!  What?!  I guess it’s a ticket that includes other places that I wasn’t going to, so I was rather hesitant to pay, especially knowing it was going right to the government.  But I did anyway.

Near the entrance, they had a big map.  80% of it was red, there was a yellow shape in the middle, and a blue line going to it.  The red part was restricted to foreigners, the blue line was the only road I could take, and the yellow part was the only place I was allowed to go and to take pictures.  So I paid $10 to see a tiny part of this huge stupid area that I had walked literally miles to see.  Oh well.

I walked down the long road, came to the palace.  Ooh, it’s .. very palacey.  Walked around for about ten minutes, meh, then decided to find a hamburger.  Pretty uneventful day.

2:27pm / Comments (View) / 0 notes / tagged: myanmar mandalay
Nov 30 2009

mandalay, day 1

ANYWAY…

here is a recap of my day so far.

I arrived at my guesthouse at 10, and found a map of the city.  There aren’t too many things I wanted to do here, just see some pagodas, the palace, and Mandalay Hill.  I’m staying near the palace and everything else looked walkable, so I decided I would go into the palace through the west gate, come out in the east, then go north to the hill and pagodas.

I had heard the palace was huge, but it really is HUGE.  It takes about 30 minutes just to walk down one side.  There is a big moat and wall around everything, too, so I couldn’t even see anything.  I got to the first gate, and there was a ton of barbed wire and guards with a big sign that said NO FOREIGNER ENTRY AT THIS GATEWAY.  Shit! I headed north.. same situation at that gate.  I’m certain that the one I would be allowed in is the south one, which would have been my last one, but I didn’t even make it that far.

So I went to a couple pagodas around Mandalay Hill, saw the world’s biggest book and biggest iron Buddha (I think).  Then started up the “Hill.”  Okay, I really didn’t know what to expect because where I’m from, we call that a “mountain”.  I felt like I kept climbing stairs forever, then—oh! this is the top!  yay!—oh, more stairs.  This happened about ten times.  It just kept going and going forever.  After about an hour, I reached the real top, covered in sweat.  Oh, okay, cool view, now I have to go ALL THE WAY DOWN.  It felt like I had been gone for days, and since there are pagodas the whole way up, I was barefoot.  No shoes in Burmese (and many other countries’) religious places.  My feet are .. pretty gross after Bagan and now the Hill today.

Soo, on the way down and up, there are people selling stuff the whole way.  There are also a few palm readers.  One of them, a man who looked as though he had climbed the hill 80 years ago and said “fuck it, I’ll stay here and tell jibberish to foreigners to make money”, stopped me to ask what my motherland was.

“America.. have you heard of it?”  Ha ha ha I’m so funny.

“Yes, USA number one!  Me Nepali!”

“Oh wow, cool!”

“Come, talk, talk, five minutes!”

“Ah.. I can’t.. very tired..”  and I know you’re just going to try to get money from me..

“Five minutes!  Sit!”

So I sat and this dude pulled out a chalkboard and asked me my birthyear, month, and then guessed the day.  “27?”  “26.. very good guess..”

He then flipped through this little old book and started writing down random numbers.  “5—lucky number!  Luuucckyy number for you!”

Then I think he told me I would marry a man born in 1982 or 1983 and we would have two “chillren”.  I’m also supposed to get a lot of money in May 2010, so I look forward to that.  Then he said stuff about Australia and Germany and India, but I kind of missed a lot of, well, everything he said.

He also read my palms and said I was “verryy luuuckky” several times.  He tied a red string around my wrist—verryy luuckkyy.  Then after five minutes, hey, what do you know—“Okay $10!”

“TEN dollars?!  No way.”

“Okay five.”

“FIVE dollars?!  That’s a lot of money.”

He kept insisting on five, but I got him down to 3,000 kyat and a picture of him, haha.

Then I went alllll the way down the hill and walked allll the way back around the palace to this little internet cafe with no internet access.  I think tomorrow I’m going to try to find the entrance to the palace then try out a Burmese movie theater?

7:36pm / Comments (View) / 0 notes / tagged: mandalay myanmar
I don’t want to complain because I’m afraid I’ll look “culturally insensitive” or comparable to bratty people on reality shows who get sent to live in the middle of Africa or something.
BUT …
I am really ready to get out of Myanmar.  I don’t dislike it at all, but I definitely don’t see myself coming back.  It’s just very overwhelming to be in a place where everyone you pass on the street wants to talk to you, ask you for money, or try to convince you that you need a motorbike/rickshaw/taxi ride.  I also have absolutely no idea where to eat, ever, because the local places are very sketchy looking.  I don’t feel unsafe, though, but have been creeped out a lot by guys’ comments and stuff.
I’ve lasted six days now, and have one more day in Mandalay and another in Yangon due to there being hardly any flights out of the country.  I am anxiously awaiting Bangkok, where I will be in three days.  It’s funny because I imagine that most Americans who have never been to Asia think of Thailand as some backwards country where people live in huts and eat dogs (which, to be honest is what Myanmar is like).  But now I think of Bangkok as this heavenly oasis with McDonald’s!  Pizza!  High-speed internet!  No power outages!  Foreigners!  And I can actually wear shorts and tank tops without being indecent.
I was truthfully really considering staying my second night in Mandalay at a hotel with a pool where I can be a hermit, but it’s too hard to justify that kind of splurge ($35ish/night) when my guesthouse is fine and only $5/night.  Two.. more.. days…

I don’t want to complain because I’m afraid I’ll look “culturally insensitive” or comparable to bratty people on reality shows who get sent to live in the middle of Africa or something.

BUT …

I am really ready to get out of Myanmar.  I don’t dislike it at all, but I definitely don’t see myself coming back.  It’s just very overwhelming to be in a place where everyone you pass on the street wants to talk to you, ask you for money, or try to convince you that you need a motorbike/rickshaw/taxi ride.  I also have absolutely no idea where to eat, ever, because the local places are very sketchy looking.  I don’t feel unsafe, though, but have been creeped out a lot by guys’ comments and stuff.

I’ve lasted six days now, and have one more day in Mandalay and another in Yangon due to there being hardly any flights out of the country.  I am anxiously awaiting Bangkok, where I will be in three days.  It’s funny because I imagine that most Americans who have never been to Asia think of Thailand as some backwards country where people live in huts and eat dogs (which, to be honest is what Myanmar is like).  But now I think of Bangkok as this heavenly oasis with McDonald’s!  Pizza!  High-speed internet!  No power outages!  Foreigners!  And I can actually wear shorts and tank tops without being indecent.

I was truthfully really considering staying my second night in Mandalay at a hotel with a pool where I can be a hermit, but it’s too hard to justify that kind of splurge ($35ish/night) when my guesthouse is fine and only $5/night.  Two.. more.. days…

white whine

I realized today, now, that the government here has banned a ton of websites, including Gmail and Google.  Usually internet cafes use proxies to go around all the bans, but for some reason the one I’m in now isn’t using one.  So I can’t check my email :( and all of the free proxies I know of are blocked.

It’s actually pretty ridiculous how many sites are blocked without a proxy, even lonelyplanet.com is.  Wtf?

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